Maintaining a Pressure Tank
Pressure Tanks will last for years, with a little TLC.
The bladder in a tank is no different to a balloon, over time it loses air pressure as it is just a rubber membrane, and there is no such thing as non-permeable rubber in a pressure tank!
It is also susceptible to stretching and therefore the creation of weak points which is why sizing it correctly in the first instance is so important.
Troubleshooting guide
If it appears that a bladder tank is not operating correctly, check the tank’s air charge:
• Disconnect electrical power to the pump.
• Drain the tank by opening the closest faucet.
• Check the tank’s pressure by placing an air pressure gauge on the air charging valve on the top of the tank.
• Add air if the pressure is more than 2 psi below the pump cut-in pressure. Use caution when using an air compressor or air pump.
• Release air if the pressure is 2 psi above the pump cut-in pressure (lowest pressure in the operating range).
• Check for leaks in the air charging system by dripping a soap solution on the air charging valve.
• Re-start the pump and run through a normal cycle to verify the setting. If tank pressure drops abnormally, the bladder inside the tank may have a tear or hole in it.
Is my Pressure Tank waterlogged?
You should also check a bladder tank to determine if it’s waterlogged. A tank is waterlogged if it is completely filled with water or has too much water to function correctly. Waterlogged bladder pressure tanks contribute to the following problems:
· The pump motor cycles too often. Frequent cycling can shorten the lifespan of a pump.
· Because waterlogged tanks can contain stagnant water, there can be
· Unsatisfactory coliform samples or taste and odor complaints.
· Premature tank failure: The inside walls of a waterlogged tank can corrode and weaken from the exposure to water.
It may often be most cost-efficient for the customer to simply replace a waterlogged tank.
Reasons for waterlogging
Bladder tanks can become waterlogged for many reasons. Some of the more common reasons are:
· Sediment and minerals such as iron and manganese, can coat the surface of the bladder, causing it to harden and become less flexible.
· Sediments can plug the fill or draw line, preventing the tank from filling and emptying normally.
· Excessive levels of chorine can damage the bladder, causing it to become brittle and less flexible.
· Tanks sitting directly on the ground or on another surface that is continually moist can rust and lose structural integrity.
· Chlorinators can give off corrosive vapors that cause the tank to rust.
Chlorine and chemicals are not friends of rubber membranes and pressure tanks. If you need to dose your water tank you may want to consider disconnection of your pressure tank.
We recommend regular maintenance checks at least quarterly.
Pressure Tanks will last for years, with a little TLC.
The bladder in a tank is no different to a balloon, over time it loses air pressure as it is just a rubber membrane, and there is no such thing as non-permeable rubber in a pressure tank!
It is also susceptible to stretching and therefore the creation of weak points which is why sizing it correctly in the first instance is so important.
Troubleshooting guide
If it appears that a bladder tank is not operating correctly, check the tank’s air charge:
• Disconnect electrical power to the pump.
• Drain the tank by opening the closest faucet.
• Check the tank’s pressure by placing an air pressure gauge on the air charging valve on the top of the tank.
• Add air if the pressure is more than 2 psi below the pump cut-in pressure. Use caution when using an air compressor or air pump.
• Release air if the pressure is 2 psi above the pump cut-in pressure (lowest pressure in the operating range).
• Check for leaks in the air charging system by dripping a soap solution on the air charging valve.
• Re-start the pump and run through a normal cycle to verify the setting. If tank pressure drops abnormally, the bladder inside the tank may have a tear or hole in it.
Is my Pressure Tank waterlogged?
You should also check a bladder tank to determine if it’s waterlogged. A tank is waterlogged if it is completely filled with water or has too much water to function correctly. Waterlogged bladder pressure tanks contribute to the following problems:
· The pump motor cycles too often. Frequent cycling can shorten the lifespan of a pump.
· Because waterlogged tanks can contain stagnant water, there can be
· Unsatisfactory coliform samples or taste and odor complaints.
· Premature tank failure: The inside walls of a waterlogged tank can corrode and weaken from the exposure to water.
It may often be most cost-efficient for the customer to simply replace a waterlogged tank.
Reasons for waterlogging
Bladder tanks can become waterlogged for many reasons. Some of the more common reasons are:
· Sediment and minerals such as iron and manganese, can coat the surface of the bladder, causing it to harden and become less flexible.
· Sediments can plug the fill or draw line, preventing the tank from filling and emptying normally.
· Excessive levels of chorine can damage the bladder, causing it to become brittle and less flexible.
· Tanks sitting directly on the ground or on another surface that is continually moist can rust and lose structural integrity.
· Chlorinators can give off corrosive vapors that cause the tank to rust.
Chlorine and chemicals are not friends of rubber membranes and pressure tanks. If you need to dose your water tank you may want to consider disconnection of your pressure tank.
We recommend regular maintenance checks at least quarterly.
